www.cowries.net

Sulawesi by Boat

the Empress Indonesia-Trip 2003

 Actually, our plan for this year was to take a journey from Makassar eastward and the up to Manado along the eastern coast of Sulawesi. The weather situation did not allow this, so we changed plans and left Makassar westward on Oct. 2nd 2003. The map above describes the route we have taken.

001
001
002
002
004
003
003
004
005
005
006
006
007
007
009
008
 001, 006: Makassar the day before departure. 007-009: TenggaTengga Reef, off Makassar
010
009
011
011
012
012
013
013
014
014
015
015
016
016
017
017
 011: Notice something? The EMPRESS now has a decompression chamber! 013-014: A 250 years old Chinese wreck with lots of (mostly broken) porcellain on board!
018
018
019
019
020
020
021
021
022
022
024
024
026
026
027
027
 
028
028
029
029
030
030
031
031
032
032
032a
032a
032b
032b
032d
032d
 032: Off the coast of Kalimantan, the Captain discovered a Japanese WW2 Wreck: The Amagiri, waiting for us at 25 m depth.
033
033
033a
033a
033b
033b
033c
033c
033e
033e
033f
033f
034
034
034a
034a
 033: A successful dive's catch. 033b: a beautiful Leporicypraea geographica in a ledge of the wreck.
034r
034r
035
035
035d
035d
035f
035f
036
036
036a
036a
036ab.jpg
036ab
036g
036
 035: Hugh and Vidar are excited: the wreck still has lots of nautical stuff to salvage. 036: now this is the stuff that excites me!
036h
036h
036l
036l
036s
036s
038
038
038a
038a
038b
038b
038h
038h
045
045
 Shipwrecks attract big fish. These large rays were very friendly and inquisitive. 045: on our way back to the coast of Sulawesi we did a dive on flat sand. Under a large sponge a lot of interesting empty shells had accumulated.
048
048
050
050
051
051
052
052
053
053
054
054
059
059
060
060
 Reaching the aequator. The landscape of Sulawesi is very variable, so was the weather.
061
061
062
062
063
063
064
064
065
065
068a
068a
075
075
070
070
 064: OK gentlemen, here is the proof: Conus marmoreus and Conus bandanus found alongside, and yes, the ARE distinct! 065: a superbe Chicoreus palmarosae found in a ledge at 35 m.
071
071
072
072
074
074
078
078
079
079.jpg
069
069
079a
079a
079g
079g
 Ovulids are my new favorites. It takes a lot of luck to find a place where they are, and it is rare to find a place where there are so many as at Point Loboe in the north of Sulawesi. 069 shows the result of a bonanza-dive at 25 m. 079a, 080: Dentiovula clava, one of the very rare species in the family.
079h
079h
079ha.jpg
079ha
079hb.jpg
079hb
079j
079j
079x
079x
080
080
081
081
084
084
 079h: Crenavolva dorsuosa. Finding these on the large red gorgonians takes luck and patience.
081b
081b
081c
081c
081d
081d
081e
081e
081f
081f
081w
081w
086
086
081a
081a
083
083
089
089
090
090
091
091
092
092
093
093
094
094
095
095
096
096
097
097
098
098
099
099
099k
099k
100
100
101
101
102
102
103
103
105
105
106
106
107
107
108
108
109
109
109a
109a
110
110
111
111
112
112
113
113
114
114
115
115
116
116
117
117
119
119
120
120
121
121
123
123
123a
123a
124
124
126
126
127
127
128
128
130
130
131
131
133
133
134
134
135
135
137
137
140
140
141
141
187
187
188
188
189
189
190
190
191
191
222
222
196
196
197a
197a
198
198
198a
198a
198b
198b
198c
198c
198g
198g
198h
198h
199
199
200
200
143
143
146
146
146a
146a
147a
147a
147b
147b
148
148
148a
148a
149
149
150
150
160
160
161
161
162
162
170
170
170a
170a
170b
170b
170c
170c
Bunaken National Park and Lembeh Street, N. Sulawesi. The divesites are magic, many strange and spectacular creatures live here. 170a-c shows a giant "Spanish Dancer"-nudibranch. Beneath the mantle edge, tiny commensal shrimps were hovering up and down.
164
164
167
167
173
173
174
174
177
177
178
178
183
183
184a
184a
 180: an "Anglerfish", a bizarre creature that walks on its fins.
180b
180b
180d
180d
180g
180g
180
180
180a
180a
181
181
184
184
185
185
 184: A Napoleon Fish. It takes a National Park such as that of Bunaken to see these majestic creatures.
215
215
215a
215a
216
216
211
211
210
210
213
213
195
195

 210-216: The resort of Gangga Island is very beautiful, perfectly organized and extremely friendly. The food is about the best we have encountered anywhere outside Europe. To relax, spend a great time snorkling around Gangga and the neighboring Islands we really recommend the place. The only shortcoming is the diving. Let me conclude with a comment on picture No. 195 which shows a typical dive with the team of the Gangga Dive Centre: a turbulent scratching of fins and banging of cylinders, a big dive family. Well, at least for my part I can say that I am not a family man.

200a
200a
200b
200b
200c
200c
200d
200d
200e
200e
 200a-e: A Blue-Ringed Octopus. This poisonous 4 cm long creature changes color within a fracture of a second and perfectly adapts to its surrounding. We found it in the ankle-deep intertidal of Gangga Island, where we spent a wonderful time relaxing after our Empress-adventure.