Marquesas 2008 |
pictures from our trip around Nuku Hiva |
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Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia. To reach this place we went from Frankfurt to Los Angeles, on to Papeete, Tahiti, and by small plane to the airport on the northwestern end of the island. |
Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. The small town has a few decent shops where you can buy about most of the things you may have forgotten to bring, just make sure you bring enough cash!!. An excellent restaurant with an affordable guest-house is right on the waterfront (Moana Nui Restaurant and Pension, see http://pensionmoananui.ifrance.com/english.htm) |
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Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva |
Taiohae Bay in the south of Nuku Hiva is a sheltered natural harbour and important stepping-stone for sailors crossing the Pacific. |
On the outside of Taiohae Bay there are many dive-sites offering rough, clear conditions with plenty of large fish |
Inside the bay there are interesting places for night-dives |
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Most islanders we met were lovely people, but there were quite some exceptions. On trying to get fresh water at the jetty we were jelled at, supported by a knife waved at us. At another instance we were told to report to the gendamerie, who were supposedly going to arrest us (which turned out to be just another threat). |
Along the shores of Taiohae Bay there are interesting sites for snorkling. Cowries are scarce and there is little variety up shallow (caputserpentis, an occasional maculifera martybealsi and fimbriata marquesana). |
Hakapea Bay in the southeast |
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Nuku Hiva has many small and large rivers which are home to a variety of freshwater-Neitidae |
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The Bay of Hathieu in the northeast of Nuku Hiva |
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Hathieu village |
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The famous ruins at Taipivai |
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These kids of Colette Bay were happy to have us photograph them. After we shared our cookies they told us to kindly f... off. Later, an older guy pulled alongside to noisily elaborate on this, so we left. Later a friendly man at the Gendamerie of Taiohae told us that the people of Colette had bitterly complained about us for entering their bay, while by law we are allowed to go there and anywhere else people may tell us to get out of, at any time. Quite obviously, many Marquesan people are not yet ready for foreign visitors. |
Colette Bay. See ya... |
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The floating trashcan by the name of Bounty Bay (http://www.paradiseadventures.com.au/bounty_bay_details.htm). Believe it or not, the owner sold us a dive charter from the Marquesas to Tahiti via the Tuamotus. The boat did not seem to be in a seaworthy condition and for sure was not suitable to take average dive-tourists out on open sea. |
At first glance, the kitchen looks clean and well organized. On looking closer the trained eye of a parasitologist found this a habitat of at least three species of cockroaches, an indeterminate number of different (party un-named) ants and termites competing for food with an unexpected intrusion of paying customers. |
In the white box on the left: the compressor that did not work. On the right: the smallest but noisiest model of compressor imaginable. In fact, the diving was possible when it ran 15 hours a day, making life in the only shady place on deck unbearable. |
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The boat arrived in the Marquesas late, engines broken and damages to the deck, after going through a cyclone on the way. |
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What is written on the box: The expedition boat Bounty Bay is specially equipped for remote island expeditions. She has 14 comfortable berths; a spacious cabin, well-appointed galley and can carry a generous amount of fuel for crossing the Pacific. As a large motor catamaran there is also plenty of room for bulky equipment. |
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The only source of fresh air under deck was this hatch that could be opened from the outside, but had to stay closed while the boat was moving. The consequence being that the engine fumes would poison anybody trying to stay on his bunk despite the danger of being hard-boiled by the heat. |
The bunks were small, space was limited, but you get used to this - we were not expecting any luxury. What is difficult to understand though is how the owner of the Bounty Bay treats paying customers by providing only extremely dirty bedding, stinking, rotten pillows and torn, oil-stained towles. |
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Our comfortable cabin |
This damage on the end of Janas bunk is at least one year old. It would have taken fifteen minutes for a carpenter to fix. |
In the mind of the boat-owner, baggage can be stored conveniently on the floor of the narrow galley during the night and on the bunks during daytime. No explanations were given how people could escape this place in case of an emergency as the hatch could not be opened from the inside (unless you are the Incredible Hulk). Needless to add that there was no functioning bilge pump. |
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Seaching for freshwater-Neritidae |
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Gary, without whose good mood, enthusiasm and fine cooking we would have not done the trip after all. No joke, against all odds the food was the best about the Bounty Bay. |
Snorkling at Taiohae Bay. There are plenty of rocks to turn and things to find. |
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Pacific Manta rays (Manta hamiltoni) are a common encounter on dives around Nuku Hiva. |
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Nerites again... |
Hammerheads are quite common, especially during night-dives. |
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Our engineer Jack had a busy time trying to stay calm while fixing all the things that broke on board the Bounty Bay. Nevertheless, some essential things went off permanently (such as the main compressor, that looked like it could never have worked, ever). |
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Cribrarula astaryi |
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Here is one. Cribrarula astaryi |
Cribrarula astaryi |
Cribrarula astaryi |
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Talparia talpa with one of those aggressive eels |
Monetaria caputserpentis ssp. |
Mauritia maculifera martybealsi, juvenile |
Monetaria caputserpentis ssp. |
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Monetaria caputserpentis ssp. |
Chicoreus steeriae |
Conus obscurus with egg capsules |
Chicoreus ramosus |
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Mauritia maculifera martybealsi |
Sylasterine corals with Pedicularia sp. |
Many thanks to: Jana, whose good spirit and positive attitude has turned this difficult trip a joyful adenture to me. Ann & Wayne (who contribute to the gallery with their excellent photos), to Hugh and Simone, BC, Markus, Clifford, and last not least Jack and Gary. To anybody who considers booking the Bounty Bay as it is now: RUUUUUUN!!! |